Defrost faults and the frost wall
The most common reason a Sub-Zero freezer goes warm without the compressor ever failing is the defrost system. Every freezer builds frost on its evaporator; a healthy unit melts it on a timed or adaptive cycle using a small defrost heater, watched by a thermistor and a control. When the heater opens, the thermistor drifts, or the control loses the cycle, frost stops clearing and slowly sheets the evaporator in ice. Airflow chokes, the fan pushes against a wall of frost, and the box warms even though refrigerant is still moving.
The tell is a heavy frost wall behind the rear freezer panel while the air feels warm — often with a freezer that recovers for a day or two after a manual thaw, then softens again. That recurring soften-and-recover rhythm is the defrost signature, and in a Napa second home it can repeat for weeks before anyone is there to catch it. It is a bounded, stocked-part repair: a defrost heater, a thermistor, sometimes the control. What it is not is a reason to open the sealed system, and chipping at that ice to "help" is the fastest way to puncture an evaporator and turn it into one.
When it really is the sealed system
Sometimes the freezer is the early warning of genuine sealed-system trouble — a weak compressor or a slow refrigerant leak that shows up first as a freezer that can't hold 0°F. The honest signs are a freezer that warms steadily with a clean condenser, a working fan and no frost wall, and a compressor that runs continuously without pulling the box down. Even then we don't quote refrigerant work from symptoms; under Section 608 that work is regulated, and it gets diagnosed with pressure and temperature evidence and confirmed in a written quote first. If your unit is older, the repair-or-replace framework and what sealed-system work costs are worth reading before you decide.